Sciacca, Sicily. Is it worth a visit?

Our first stop in Sciacca was almost accidental. We were driving back from Selinunte and decided to see what Sciacca was about.

It was Sunday. It was around 14:00. Which we now know is an almost illegal hour in Sicily.

The town felt… dead.

Not abandoned, but paused. Streets empty. Shops closed. A strange stillness. And yet, what stood out immediately was how many historical buildings there were. A bit run down, yes, but not neglected. Just... Carrying time.

And then the flats. We saw so many of them whilst driving to the city centre. Whole buildings of apartments. You could feel that this place should be alive. Should be... But somehow it absolutely didn't seem so.

A quick Google search confirmed what we were already sensing. For years, there was a policy of building without the buying power or work to support it. Many flats stayed empty. The city grew on paper, but life didn’t follow at the same pace.

We left intrigued, not convinced. But Sciacca stayed with me.

The second visit

We went back in December. This time in the evening. Normal Sicilian hours. And suddenly, Sciacca revealed itself.

Alive. Loud. Warm and beautiful.

Even the parking was an experience. We parked right in the center and discovered you need to go into a local cafe to buy scratch-card parking tickets. One card for each hour. I managed to mess up all of them. Completely. Somehow, the police must have forgiven the confused... Not locals... Because we didn’t get a fine.

A small Sicilian miracle. Or a Christmas kindness?

An unexpected city of art

The town was buzzing. Locals out. Bars full. Conversations spilling into the streets. We started wandering around and that’s when it hit me.

Sciacca is a city of art.

Not the polished, gallery kind. But raw, edgy, thoughtful art. Street art that makes think. Or rather forces you to. Murals that feel intentional rather than decorative. Pieces that don’t explain themselves, but invite a reaction.

And then the little shops. Small, independent places full of objects you suddenly convince yourself you need. This is also the moment my husband quietly hid the wallet away.

Sciacca felt like a very fun place to be. For a glass of wine and a lively discussion. For walking without a plan and talking about what you just saw around the corner. Art that sparks a conversation rather than demands attention.

At some point, I realized I was appreciating every single corner. Painted or not. That’s when a place really has you.

A good friend of ours had suggested going up to San Calogero for the views, the church, and the sulfur caves. It was fully our plan.

But Sciacca distracted us.

We didn’t notice how the evening crept up on us until it was already dark. Properly dark. By the time we checked the time, the church was no longer an option.

So we did the only reasonable thing left to do.

We had an aperitivo. In the darkness. Watching the harbor lights. Fantastic sweets, as always in Sicily, and that quiet feeling that comes when you stop trying to do everything.

San Calogero is still waiting for us. Firmly on our list for next time.

So, is Sciacca worth a visit?

My answer is yes. And no.

If your time in Sicily is limited, and I say this with respect, you might be okay skipping it. There are so many wonderful places here to visit and you cannot do it all.

But if you have time, please, please go.

Sciacca isn’t immediate. It’s layered. It grows on you. I love its edginess. The way time shows on the buildings. The history that hasn’t been polished away. And the art... Always the art.

We didn’t even know why we were coming back. Maybe just to find out if it was worth it.

But now I know this. We’ll be back for the art. For the atmosphere. For the streets that come alive in the evening.

We fully plan to roam Sciacca slowly and have many, many aperitivos in bars that look very fun to be in. Sciacca has stolen my heart.

If you are interested in the Sciacca vibe, check out our Christmas video. You will find many Sicilian towns and cities there, can you find Sciacca? https://youtu.be/3USCO9pQPPY?si=LGdWey40d_mBXFg6

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Ciao!