Monreale And Piana Degli Albanesi On A Rainy January Day
We did not expect much from Monreale. And I mean that honestly.
It was January. It was raining. And it is one of those places every single guidebook tells you to visit. That combination rarely works in our experience, especially in low season. Because of that, we planned to continue on to Piana degli Albanesi afterward. Just in case Monreale turned out to be exactly what we feared it might be.
Crowded. Overhyped. And a little disappointing. Honestly, we should have expected to be wrong by now. Sicily has proven again and again that even the places we expect to be touristy and "boring" are still absolutely worth a visit.
One thing we were determined to do right
At least this time, we were absolutely determined to eat lunch on time.
If you’ve followed us for a while, you’ll know this is not something we’re particularly good at. We tend to get excited, keep walking, forget the time, and then suddenly realise it’s too late for lunch in Sicily. Especially on day trips.
So this time, we made a conscious decision. Lunch first. Exploring later. And Osteria Peper's did not disappoint.
Yes, it’s one of those places people still call a “hidden gem”, despite having countless reviews online. So no, it’s not hidden. But a gem it is. The food was excellent. Slightly on the pricier side, but still worth it.
And I finally had pistachio pasta.
Sicily is famous for its pistachios, especially those grown around Bronte. They’re smaller, more aromatic, and naturally sweeter than most other varieties. They’re used everywhere here. In savoury dishes, pastries, creams, and even pesto. Pistachio pasta is one of those things you really should try at least once while you’re here.
Unfortunately, we were far too full for dessert. Again. I genuinely don’t understand how Sicilians manage to finish all their courses.
The reason people come to Monreale
After lunch, it was finally time for the cathedral.
The Monreale Cathedral is the main reason people come here, and for once, the hype is justified.
After years of travelling, I’ll admit something. At some point, you feel a little churched out. You’ve seen so many that they start to blur together. But if there is one church you should not skip, it’s this one.
The cathedral was built in the 12th century under King William II of Sicily. According to legend, he was guided by a vision of the Virgin Mary, who revealed where hidden treasure lay to fund its construction. Inside, the walls are covered almost entirely in golden mosaics made by Byzantine craftsmen. It’s one of the largest mosaic cycles in Europe, and remarkably, it has remained largely unchanged for centuries.
What really surprised us was how immersive it felt. Not just visually, but spatially. You can walk along the upper terraces and see the mosaics from above, almost at eye level. Details you would never notice from the floor suddenly stand out.
And then there’s the view. Monreale below. Palermo stretching into the distance. Mountains behind you. On a clear day (and most days in Sicily are clear) you can even see the sea.
I wouldn’t call Monreale my favourite Sicilian town. Even without summer crowds, it felt busy, and parking was a nightmare. But the cathedral alone makes the drive worth it. Especially if you’re staying near Palermo.
Into the mountains
After Monreale, we continued on to Piana degli Albanesi.
The town itself is small, but beautiful. And the drive there might honestly be one of the most scenic we’ve experienced in all of Sicily. Which is saying a lot. The road winds through mountains, opens into wide views, and suddenly the landscape feels different. Higher. Cooler. More spacious.
Piana degli Albanesi was founded in the late 15th century by Albanian refugees fleeing the Ottoman invasion of the Balkans. What makes it remarkable is not just that they settled here, but that they managed to preserve so much of their identity over centuries. The town is one of the most important Arbëreshë communities in Italy. Arbëreshë is the name given to Albanian-descended communities who settled in southern Italy and Sicily, and here, their language, traditions, and religious rites are still very much alive.
Even today, many locals speak Arbëreshë alongside Italian. Street signs, churches, and celebrations reflect this dual identity, and the atmosphere feels noticeably different from most Sicilian towns. It’s subtle, but you feel it almost immediately.
We arrived on a Sunday evening, and everything was already closed. No cafes buzzing, no shops open, no noise. But even so, the atmosphere was unmistakable. Quieter. Slower. More inward-looking. It felt like a place that doesn’t perform for visitors, which I actually appreciated.
In summer, a visit to Lake Piana degli Albanesi would be a wonderful addition. The lake sits just outside the town and is popular for walks, picnics, and long, lazy afternoons with views over the surrounding hills. It feels like the kind of place locals escape to when the coastal heat becomes too much.
Piana degli Albanesi is also famous for its food, particularly its ricotta-based desserts. Many people come here specifically for cannoli, often considered among the best in Sicily. Easter is another special time to visit, when traditional Byzantine rites are still celebrated, complete with distinctive clothing, chants, and processions you won’t see elsewhere on the island.
All in all, it’s not a place that overwhelms you with sights. Instead, it grows on you quietly. And paired with Monreale, it creates a day that feels balanced. A bit of grandeur, followed by calm. History, followed by space.
Even if you only come for the drive, it’s worth it.
A perfect day trip from Palermo
If you asked me for a day trip idea from Palermo, this would be it. Especially in summer.
Leave early. Visit the cathedral in Monreale while it’s still calm. Stay for lunch. Then take the scenic road to Piana degli Albanesi. Stop for local wines and delicacies. Walk around the town. Visit the lake. Take your time.
It’s absolutely worth it.
If you’d like to see our visit to Monreale and Piana degli Albanesi in more detail, you can find the video on our YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/8w5LQHYdEaE?si=eSovD3FjBkhsSPL5
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