Catania, Sicily: The City I Thought I Wouldn't Like

I will be honest. I was not excited about Catania at all.

Before visiting, I had heard the same description many people repeat. Chaotic. Loud. Messy. Impossible traffic. So naturally I expected a city where you survive the experience rather than enjoy it.

Instead, Catania surprised me almost immediately.

First Impressions

The very first thing I noticed was the pavement.

Some parts of the city are literally paved with lava stone. Dark, almost black slabs under your feet that came from Mount Etna itself. It is one of those details that instantly reminds you where you are. And honestly, it looks very cool.

But here is a fun detail I did not expect. The lava stone squeaks under car tires.

So as you walk through the streets you constantly hear this soft squeaking sound from the cars driving over it. It almost feels like the entire city is quietly squeaking its way through traffic.

Which is actually quite useful, because as you probably already know by now, sidewalks in Sicilian cities are often… optional.

You often walk between parked cars, scooters and moving traffic. At least in Catania you frequently hear the cars coming before you see them.

The second surprise was the driving itself. I expected complete madness. Somehow it was much calmer than I imagined. Busy, yes. But if you are used to city driving, it is actually manageable.

Which was not what I expected at all.

Living Under a Volcano

Of course, Etna is always present. Reminding both of its beauty and destruction it is capable of. You see it constantly in the background. Sometimes quiet, sometimes covered with snow, sometimes with smoke drifting from it (which we didn't see and I am grateful, because I would freak out).

It has a strange effect on the atmosphere of the city. There is this quiet reminder that nature is in charge here. But it is kind of humbling. Beautiful and terrifying simultaneously.

Imagine doing your daily shopping while a volcano watches over the city. Not many places in the world can say that. And the most interesting part is that Etna is not just part of the scenery or the background of the city.

After the devastating eruption in 1669, large parts of Catania were destroyed. When the city was rebuilt, the same lava stone that had buried it became part of the architecture.

So the volcano did not just shape the landscape. It literally became part of the city.

A small detail that I liked learning later is that Catania is sometimes called the “black city.” Not because of anything dark about it, but simply because of the amount of lava stone used in buildings and streets. Once you notice it, you start seeing it everywhere.

Living On Top of History

My personal favorite place in Catania was the Roman Amphitheatre. When you see pictures online, it looks relatively small. So I expected something modest. But standing there feels completely different.

What makes it fascinating is not only the amphitheatre itself, but the fact that the modern city is built around it and on top of it.

Apartment buildings overlook it. Balconies face it. People live their normal daily lives literally above ancient Roman ruins.

There was something about the atmosphere that made me want to stay longer. Grab a bottle of wine and just sit there in the evening.

Although to be clear, I am not entirely sure if that is allowed. So maybe do not take that part as official advice.

One more surprising fact: the amphitheatre was once one of the largest in the Roman Empire. Most of it is still hidden under the surrounding buildings, which means what you see today is only a small part of the original structure.

Which somehow makes it even more impressive.

A City That Feels Alive

Living in a bigger city is not really for us. At least not right now. But Catania does have something that is hard to describe.

It feels energetic. Fast. Slightly chaotic, but in a fun way. A small version of a city that never sleeps. A city where something is always happening.

And that is exactly why it is such an interesting place to visit.

Catania was not what I expected. It was better. And I know we will definitely be back.

If you wish to see our full experience in Catania, you can find the video here: https://youtu.be/oWhfIUeEYpc?si=1CwbEkVlG_bpBxYJ

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Ciao.